Area Overview

HELDERBERG

The Helderberg is about 20 minutes away from Cape Town international airport and about 30 minutes drive from Cape Town central, linked by an international highway. This area is one of the very few in the world where mountain and sea meet and is scenically most beautiful.

It lives up to its reputation of "Everything's here - everything's near" as it is right on the start of the beautiful winelands area, 10 minutes away from Stellenbosch, on a coastline of beautiful long white beaches with safe swimming and the warmth of the Indian Ocean currents, two harbours and plenty accommodation and luxurious 5 star hotels.

The Helderberg Basin, as it is known to the people who live here, was named for its magnificent mountain range towering over Somerset West and the shallow basin in which the towns lie.

The Helderberg municipal area includes the towns of Gordon's Bay, Faure, Firgrove, Lwandle, Macassar, Nomzamo, Sir Lowry's Pass, Somerset West and Strand. The area offers, besides great golfing facilities, outdoor entertainment ranging from water sports and hiking to scenic drives and discovering historic sites.

False Bay is any water sport enthusiast's dream, from placid coves to the challenge of waves and exploring the deep. Cross currents do however occur and the unwary are cautioned to take care, especially during spring and neap tides.

The abundant fauna and flora, as well as marine life, make this a haven for nature lovers.

With ideal soils and cool sea breezes, this area is particularly well-suited to the production of wine. Visitors can sample the Helderberg wines by exploring the Helderberg Wine Route with its apt motto: "From the vine to the sea".

The route includes some thirteen wineries and a brewery, offering visitors a true taste of the Helderberg.

Other local sites of interest well worth visiting in the Helderberg area, include:

  • The Lourens River Bridge in Somerset West, dated from 1844 and built from good quality Table Mountain sandstone;
  • Sheik Jusef Shrine in Macassar. He is considered the founder of the Islamic faith in the Western Cape and was exiled here from Batavia by the Dutch in 1694;
  • Steenbras Dam - situated on top of the mountains above Gordon's Bay. The dam supplies water to the Cape Peninsula and the four kilometre road leading up to the dam's entrance offers magnificent views of False Bay and the Helderberg;
  • Vergelegen - though not the oldest farm in the Helderberg, it certainly is one of the oldest original farms. Granted to Governor Willem Adriaan van der Stel in 1700, the homestead itself is not a national monument, but the five magnificent camphor trees planted in front of the house by Willem Adriaan van der Stel, were proclaimed historical monuments in 1942;
  • Helderberg Nature Reserve - the Reserve extends from the lower slopes of the Helderberg at 80 metres above sea level to the West Peak at an elevation of 1003 metres. Fynbos, the indigenous Cape flora, makes up the greater part of the Reserve's vegetation. The area is rich in bird life and visitors can also get a closer look at three recently acquired bontebok grazing in one of the Reserve's lower camps.

The motto for the area "Everything is here, everything is near" is extremely appropriate as you are not far from Cape Town but far enough to feel as if you are out in the country.

SOMERSET WEST

Nestling on the slopes of the Helderberg, Somerset West was founded in 1822 on part of the historic farm, Vergelegen. Originally named Somerset, after Lord Charles Somerset, Governor of the Cape from 1814 to 1826, the name was later changed to Somerst West to avoid confusion with the town of Somerset East in the Eastern Cape.

Modern day Somerset West is a far cry from the tiny settlement it was back then, but the unique atmosphere of history in this character-filled town still prevails.
Oak trees and thatched cottages, historic building and national monuments combine with the presence of a bustling, close-knit community to give a pleasant comforting aura to the town.

GORDONS'S BAY

The picturesque harbour town of Gordon's Bay lies in a secluded cove on the eastern shore of False Bay. From the slopes high above the town an enormous anchor, made of whitewashed rocks, overlooks the luxury waterfront developments that now line the bay.

THANK your lucky stars that you were living in Gordon's Bay in the early 21st and not 20th century, because if fate had had it otherwise, you would find your night life a dismal affair.

There was very little in the way of amusement back in the early years of the 19th century. The most exciting event for which you could don your Sunday best was an occasional "magic lantern" slide show, presented in the local church hall. The slides were illuminated by limelight and were mostly religious scenes. For some added excitement, the words of hymns were projected on the screen so that everyone could join in the singing.

Nowadays it's thankfully different, with a variety of options open to the pleasure-seeker looking for fun in the day or at night.

The most obvious choice is a day of sun-worshipping at either Main or Bikini Beaches. Fishing from the rocks and the old harbour wall remains a popular pastime, and pleasure trips on luxury yachts and cruisers are available from the two harbours. Steenbras Dam up on the Steenbras Mountain is a picturesque breath of fresh air, with its lovely gardens a popular site for picnics and walks.

The sporting types can keep themselves busy with boat, rock and surf angling, yachting and deep sea diving, while Gordon's Bay is also a favoured destination for athletes of all types. South Africa's first Ironman Triathlon was held in this town in 2000 and 2001 and attracted triathletes from across the world, while the famous German cyclist Jan Ullrich regularly frequents Gordon's Bay to put in some practice mileage. A new event, the False Bay 50, is a 50km run to Kleinmond and back, while a harbour-to-harbour swim is held annually between Harbour Island and the Gordon's Bay Harbour.

Gordon's Bay has also twice hosted the Lipton Cup sailing race and numerous regattas are regularly held. The town is home to world-famous sailing personality Bertie "Biltong" Reed, who also owns a restaurant at Harbour Island.

There are also a few walks and trails available, including the Danie Miller trail above the village and the historic cannon and wagon wheel walk at Sir Lowry's Pass. And there's certainly no shortage of restaurants for the culinary enthusiast to explore. Of course, the emphasis is on seafood, and no seaside visit would be complete without a steaming hot plate of fish and chips.

In recent years Gordon's Bay has acquired quite a bit of night life, with a few restaurants in the area regularly featuring live music and stage performances - a far cry from the slide shows of old.

GORDON'S BAY'S development has been intimately tied to the False Bay waters that lap at its feet, and the Gordon's Bay Harbour, National Sea Rescue Institute and SA Navy College have added a maritime flavour to the town that simply smacks of the sea.

From as far back as 1919 the fishing community of Gordon's Bay asked the Village Management Board for a small harbour in the bay where their boats could be safely kept. The first block of the Gordon's Bay Harbour was finally laid in 1937 by Albertus Brand Faure, chairperson of the Stellenbosch Divisional Council who was later also responsible for the building of Faure Marine Drive.

Legend has it that a gold pound was placed in that first block as a lucky charm. The harbour was completed in 1939 and remains a unique asset to the town that continues to draw stares from fascinated land-lubbers. Although initially intended only for the use of fishermen, yacht owners were eventually allowed to moor their yachts there after repeated requests for this during the 1950s. The harbour's modern walk-on moorings were built in 1991. Many people take it for granted that the white GB anchor sign on the Steenbras Mountain merely stands for "Gordon's Bay", but it, like many other aspects of the town, owes its origins to the South African Naval College.

When it was established and took up a lease at the Crash Boat station in Gordon's Bay in 1948, the college was called the General Botha SA Nautical College. Students at the college painted the rocks to form the GB anchor sign on the mountainside in 1949. In 1987 the SA Navy granted its permission that the anchor sign could also be regarded as the emblem of Gordon's Bay. The formal establishment of the SA Naval College took place on April 1, 1966.

Another maritime institution that has become a personality on its own is the National Sea Rescue Institute, Station 9. It was inaugurated in October 1969 after a letter in the Cape Argus called for the immediate establishment of a sea rescue service following the drowning of 17 crew members of a fishing boat off Stilbaai. The NSRI initially had only one small inflatable boat with an outboard motor, and its rescue work was originally done under the name of the South African Rescue Service. A 10-metre lifeboat, "Station 9", was built in 1971 in Knysna, and the NSRI later had a superfast R8 rescue boat built. It was named "Dougie's Mosquito" in honour of Major Dougie van Riet, a founder member of the NSRI who was for many years the harbour master. Major Van Riet, known as the Legend of Gordon's Bay, died in 2003 at the age of 93.

And as if one harbour is not enough, Harbour Island Marina was built 12 years ago which includes a harbour and luxurious apartments on the water with private moorings. This secure complex has become extremely popular for the overseas "swallows" as well as the locals as it is so easy to "lock up and go" and return knowing that your belongings are safe.

Gordon's Bay is also one of those very few places in the world where the mountain and sea meet.

STRAND

Some 300 years ago a certain Corporal Muller and eight soldiers of the Dutch East India Company crossed the Lourens River and set foot on the now famous white sand of the Milk Bay Beach at Strand . Coloured and Malay fisherman settled on the coast and the fishing village of Mostert's Bay was developed. In about 1850 the place was named Van Reyneveld's town. After that the name changed frequently, first to Hottentots-Holland Strand, then Somerset Strand and in 1918, The Strand. Finally in 1937 it became just Strand. Gordon's Bay is named after Robert Jacob Gordon, a Dutch military officer who commanded the Cape garrison in the latter part of the 18trh century. Today it is home to the South African Naval College.

Strand has been sought after since the mid-1800s when it was the traditional summer holiday resort for farmers from the Stellebosch area. Situated on the north-eastern shore of False Bay, the 5 km-long expanse of white sandy beach offers safe swimming, making it popular with families, sunbathers and surfers.

LWANDLE AND NOMZAMO

The history of Lwandle and Nomzamo can only be understood within the context of the migrant labour system in Southern Africa. Without this in mind, this history is likely to be distorted.


Black migrant workers who lived and still live in Lwandle hostels were generally recruited from the former homelands. They are descendants of independent farming chiefdoms who owned large pieces of land in South Africa.

Several factors forced them to abandon independent farming and resort to migrant labour. The 1913 Land Act and other laws, for example, forced them to live in the native reserves or homelands.

The then-government pressurised independent black chiefs to send out, to the cities, young men as migrant workers.

When resisting, the government used taxation as an effective way of forcing them out. In addition, young men were obliged to pay poll taxes.

On various occasions this was met with strong opposition and resistance. Some communities opted for subtle means of resistance. Instead of sending out migrant workers to white-owned mines and businesses, they produced and sold enough crops to pay these taxes.

However, the government was not prepared to accept this easily and taxes were raised. Another setback to black independent farming was caused by natural disasters.

Epidemics such as rinderpest struck the livestock, and fields were eroded by long periods of drought and overgrazing. To add to this, the government introduced stock trimming measures.

As a result there was much poverty in the homelands and black farming declined completely. The commercialisation of white farming was the final straw in destroying black farming.

White farmers received a boost in the form of subsidies from the government. This enabled them to buy machinery, thereby beating their black counterparts.

SIR LOWRY'S PASS

The route into the Cape interior across the Hottentots Holland Mountains (now known as the Helderberg mountains), initially followed a game trail known to the Khoikhoi as the Gantouw, a name meaning 'elands' path'. The route about 2 km northeast of the summit of Sir Lowry's Pass, followed a steep, narrow kloof; the deep ruts carved by the thousands of wagons that crossed the mountain can still be seen in the rocks. At nearby Kanonkop, the Dutch East India Company sited two cannons to signal the arrival of ships to Table Bay and to warn of impending Khoikhoi attack. The Gantouw was replaced in 1828 by a new route named in honour of Sir Lowry Cole, the Cape Governor at the time. At the top of the pass there is a splendid view over False Bay.

The name Hottentots Holland was originally given to the mountainous area between False Bay and the Palmiet River, but in time the whole mountain range came to be known by the name. An entry in Jan van Riebeeck's diary for 6 June 1657 states that the name was given to the area by the Khoikhoi, who called it their Holland, or fatherland. The Hottentots Holland Nature Reserve covers 42000 ha and provides protection to some 1300 species of mountain fynbos. There are several day walks and overnight trails along which the reserve can be explored.

Amenities

The Helderberg offers the visitor a wide range of accommodation to suit every taste, from five star hotels, excellent guesthouses and bed & breakfast to self-catering chalet and camping facilities. The Helderberg is home to a large number of conference venues from small to large and has in the past hosted international conferences. All major banks are represented and most have foreign exchange facilities. Each town has a main post office and there are two private hospitals within the area.

Tourist Attraction

It's sheltered beach and harbours play host to numerous regattas and other yachting and angling events, combining the flavour of an international resort with the charm of an old-style coastal towns. In summer narrow streets and the bustling beachfront comes alive with the sounds of happy holidays in progress.
The Helderberg boasts three 18-hole golf courses. One is the Gary Player designed Erinvale Golf Course which hosted the World Cup in 1996. Then there is the Somerset West Country Club and Strand Golf Course where golf equipment can be hired. For the novices we have the Vodacom Golf Village driving range.

Golf Course Nature Reserve The Bay Strand Fireworks Helderbraü
The Helderberg Nature Reserve is one of the treasures of the Helderberg region. It starts at the foothills of the Helderberg Mountain, where families picnic in the shade of ancient oaks amidst rolling lawns and reaches up to the mountainside where hardy fynbos plants cling to the steep slopes. Birds are abundant in the reserve and over the years some 169 species have been recorded. Several species of small antelope are found in the reserve and visitors may be privileged to spot Grey Duiker, Grysbok and Steenbok.

Helderberg Wine Route
In as much as the Helderberg Wine Route shares many attributes with Stellenbosch and its wine growing region, it also has so much more that sets it apart. The personalities of the wines produced in the Helderberg area are influences by the proximity to the ocean and the cooling summer sea breezes. The soils too, which are amongst the finest in the region, has a marked effect on the growing and nurturing of these vines.

Lwandle Migrant Labour Museum and Arts & Crafts Centre
This is the first township-based museum in the Western Cape and the first museum to commemorate migrancy in South Africa. Lwandle started in 1958 as single dwelling hostels for migrant workers. It is now a vibrant Community of families. The museum, located in the former community hall, through its exhibits commemorates the trials, tribulations and triumphs of migrant workers and hostel life in Southern Africa. Situated in the former municipal beer hall you will find the arts &crafts center that now produces a variety of handcrafts and encourages creativity and artistic talent.

Helderbraü
Helderbraü is one of the few privately owned small breweries in the country. They offer unique tasting German beer on tap. The beer is only available directly from the brewery in 12.5 liter Kegs.

Blue Rock Cable Waterski
The first cable water-ski of its kind in the Western Cape, promises to be fun for the whole family. An overhead cable system with an electric motor is used to pull skiers around the lake and completely safe.

Vintage Train Gordon's Bay Harbour Koelbaai Gordon's Bay Beach Bay Views

Vintage Train Rides
Enjoy a vintage train ride up the magnificent Sir Lowry's Pass rail route with spectacular views over False Bay, up to Table Mountain.

Beaches and Swimming
The long, sheltered beached of False Bay are excellent fro swimming, bathing and is especially popular with water-sports enthusiasts. Strand's main beaches are Milk Bay beach and Harmony beach. Both Strand and Gordon's Bay's main beaches are flanked by a promenade, which is lined with café's restaurants, and shops. The narrow sheltered Bikini Beach nestles between the mountain and the Gordon's Bay Harbour. For the best surfing experience Kogelbaai Beach is a must. This long stretch of pure white beach, situated on Faure Marine/Clarens Drive just outside Gordon's Bay, is an ideal spot for camping and caravanning and also the only braai area on the Helderberg coast. The Strand also boasts a heated Olympic size indoor swimming pool situated next to the Strand Pavilion on Beach Road for those cooler days.

Charter Cruises
An alternative means of viewing the Helderberg is from the deck of a charter boat, which leave daily (weather permitting) from the Gordon's Bay Harbour and Harbour Island.

Coastal Drive
The coastal road from Gordon's Bay to Rooi Els and Betty's Bay, named Faure Marine/Clarence Drive, is a spectacular route with steep cliffs and lovely coves. Locals label it as the Helderberg's own "Chapman's Peak" and the route offers amazing views over False Bay, right up to Table Mountain and Cape Point.

Whale Watching
Between June and December each year, hundreds of Southern Right Whales visit the sheltered, shallow bays of the South African coastline to calve and nurture their offspring. Many of these massive mammals visit False Bay each year and the best place to spot them are at official whale watching spots found on the Faure Marine/Clarence Drive, the coastal road from Gordon's Bay to Rooi Els.

Steenbras Dam
The Steenbras Dam is primarily a water source for the Unicity of Cape Town. There are several secluded picnic sites and braai areas within the 1200 hectares of pine plantations around the dams. The waters are well stocked annually with trout and fishing is permissible provided a permit is obtained. Bird life is plentiful and hundred of Egyptian geese nest on the shores and islands of the upper dam.

Vergelegan Flea Market Morgenster Estate View

Vergelegen
Vergelegen, with its magnificent backdrop of the Hottentots Holland Mountains is a must for all visitors. Granted to Governor Willem van der Stel in 1700, it is one of the Cape's most historic landmarks. Visitors can admire Camphor Trees, wander through the Octagonal and Rose Gardens and view the library. There are guided tours to the Wine Cellar, which is built into the side of Rondekop Hill and also offers wonderful views across False Bay to Table Mountain. Teas and lunches are served at Lady Phillips tea Garden.

Arts and Crafts
Somerset West is famous for its craft markets, which are held at Southey's Vines in the main Street on Saturday mornings.

Monkey Town
Primate Centre. Have fun with 25 exotic monkey species and chimps frolicking in a leafy park. Take a guided tour or enjoy a relaxing lunch in the restaurant while the kids play in the farmyard and jungle gym.

Morgenster Estate Extra virgin olive oil is produced and sold at this historic estate in Somerset West. Although the homestead is not open to the public, its particularly fine gable can be viewed from the front avenue.

 

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